1. 1000-3000 miles. Check your oil and filter. For basic oil, you’ll need to to change oil every 3000 miles. With new synthetic oils, the urgency of an oil change is closer to 5000-6000, but an Oil Filter change is still necessary. Synthetic oils are only more resistant to heat and breakdown. Therefore, they can stay in your engine longer and will require the oil filter to do more of the cleaning work.

2. 4000-8000 miles. Check your Air Filter, fluid levels and basic car safety. Your air filter will get dirtier and dirtier by basic dirt from the air and particulates in the engine compartment. A dirty filter can cause poor performance and poor fuel economy. Basic filters are cheap and easy to replace. Moving to an aftermarket parts by companies like K&N and Green will improve performance and mileage with only a negligible cost increase. Check your fluid levels like coolant and brake/clutch fluid. If you can, check your transmission and differential fluids as well. Coolant is important to make sure you’re not leaking and potentially causing extra heat buildup in your engine. A brake/clutch fluid leak can be dangerous for obvious reasons. A hard to engage/disengage clutch can be a sign of a leaky fluid line. Transmission and differential fluids are very important, but often go overlooked because of the difficulty getting to them. You could safely go 50000 miles without a change, but those who drive high performance cars or drive aggressively should change these fluids more often as it could become harder to shift and eventually can cause premature wear on gears. Basic car safety means things like your tire tread, suspension parts, brake pads and other bids that passively contribute to a road-worthy vehicle. Windshield wipers are another bit to check, but wear will be obvious when it rains.

3. 15000-20000 miles. More safety systems like lighting should be checked often, but making sure the systems are working and there’s not an electrical problem (not just a bulb out) should be something to check if certain bulbs continue to break prematurely. More importantly, this is about the time you should be looking into changing your Fuel Filter. Random sputters or long start times could be attributed to Fuel Pump/filter problems. This is a simple fix, though getting under the car and having gas splashed on you is usually a deterrent to most people.

4. 25000-30000 miles. This is another good interval to check Brake Pad wear again and in most cases, a great time to replace pre-preemptively. Some also recommend a fuel injection service to make sure the engine is working at its peak. A liquid fuel additive can work wonders as a fuel injector cleaner, making sure gas is sprayed evenly and effectively in the cylinder. Also checking your accessory belts is another good thing to check. Any cracking or noticable wear should be noted and the belts should be replaced.

5. 40000-50000 miles. Timing belts! Cars with a timing belt should have that belt changed. It’s a $300-500 job that can save you the cost of rebuilding a head. The timing belt connects the crank shaft with the camshaft. Should the belt brake while the vales are pushed out and a piston makes a full revolution and you’ll have a bent valve. Do not neglect this. If you don’t know if your car has a timing belt, as your dealer or search the web. Brake flush. The brake lines will get water in them over time and if you drive the car hard, the brake fluid can overheat causing fluid breakdown. Bleed the brakes or have a professional do it. Be sure to add the best fluid you can afford. Most cars are required to run DOT3, but DOT5 has a higher temperature tollerance and will last longer and work more effectively. Transmission fluid flush. Change your transmission and differential fluid. Every day driving will cause enough debris to get caught in these that the 50000 mile mark is as long as you want it to go before a change of fluid. Around this time you might want to check your battery. However, if all is running well and your car starts well, leaving it in would be reasonable. Lastly, if your car is handling is not up to par, you might want to get your springs/shocks checked. Poor handling can lead to accidents or poor ride quality.

6. 75000 miles. Around this time your Exhaust System may start to see excess wear, especially in Northern states that see a proper winter. Your yearly emissions check will do a good job checking the quality of your system. If you hear rattles and squeeks though, you’ll often need replacement exhaust hangers or replacement parts. These can be costly.

Of course, in the mean time of any of these intervals you’ll get the standard problems that crop up. Broken starters, busted alternators and flat tires happen from time to time. Some things are prudent to fix before braking (brakes and tires, for example). If you drive locally 95% of the time, you can get away not being preemptive on things like an A/C compressor or a new radiator. However, if you travel often, getting regular preventative maintenace is a must. Keeping your car healthy isn’t always easy, but it’s more than worth the peice of mind and enjoyment of driving down that country road or highway and knowing you’ll make it to your destination without any hiccups.

It doesn’t matter who you are buying a car from. It may be your friend or a stranger. Inspecting each and every aspect of the vehicle is very important. After all you will be using the car for the next few years you don’t be left feeling duped or spend half your time visiting the work shop.

o When inspecting the drive quality of the car you need to check the steering, transmission, brakes and tyres. The steering should be easy and the car should move well with it. It should not be wobbly or feel heavy. Try reversing the car and make sure the steering wheel moves clockwise and anti clock wise with ease. When you move the Steering Wheel the front tyres should respond well and there should not be any delay. The steering wheel should not quiver at any speed, high or low.

o Another thing to look into during car inspection is the transmission. A car with manual transmission has a clutch, brake and accelerator. Make sure the clutch plate is in good condition and changing the gears is easy. Take a car uphill to check if the Clutch Pressure Plate is slipping. Also while driving you need to check how well the gears transition from a higher speed to lower speed. If you feel the gears are crunching or if the gears are pulling back you shouldn’t consider buying the car because in time you will have to replace the entire gearbox. In case of an automatic car make sure the car is churning out well and the transmission changes well with every gear.

o The next step during car inspection is to check the brakes. The brake pedal should not seep right into the floor of the car when pressed and should not be to lose either. If the brake is a little tight that is a good sign. Make sure the car doesn’t take sharp turns when the brakes are jammed at high speed. You must also check the brake hoses that are located under the arches of the wheel for any cracks and leaks.

o During car inspection make sure all four tires of the car are in good condition. Ask the owner how old they are and when he got them changed. You must check the side walls and tread of all the tires including the spare tire. There should be no cracks on the sidewalls on the tire.

Car inspection is an important part of buying a car. So be extremely observant and make a good decision.

It is a satisfying feat to change your own oil. It is way cheaper and the tips and trick are the only things you need to do the process well.

1. Depending on how cold it is, start your engines and leave it as it is for 10-15 minutes. When the oil it hot, all the dirt goes up and stay suspended while hot. You need hot oil to clean out the inside of the engine and to get the most advantageous Oil Filter change.

2. Jack up the car while it is running. Use standard jacks and make sure you follow the instructions well. Lift it high enough so you can move comfortably under the hood.

3. Prepare your supplies. You will need wrenches and depending on the model of the car, you will need a 13-21 mm. The most standard would be a 15-18mm.

4. Turn the vehicle off. Get a bucket and slide it under the car directly to the drain plug. Crack the plug loose and let the Oil Pump drain. Wipe the plug and check for any wear and tear. They usually have copper seals and if there is any damage, go get a new one to avoid leaks.

5. After the drain, replace the plug and tighten it up and tighten it up but not too much or you will over tighten it.

6. Get your bucket and slide it towards the filter. Check it in a good lighting and look for an odd object on the engine block. They are at the Oil Pan, the front and the side of the engine block.

7. Some new cars have a different kind of filter which is usually on top of the engine. Sometimes they are on the sides and bottom. They usually are hexagonal. Remove this filter.

8. Replace a new filter and place a thin film of oil on the rubber seal so that it will not melt to the block. Use either new or used oil.

9. Add the right amount of oil into the engine. After that, run the engine while still on the jacks to check if there are any leaks. If there are no leaks, put the car down and remove the jacks. Congratulations! You saved yourself an average of 15 dollars!

Here’s a short but concise checklist on the things that people usually forget to check when looking to buy a used car. Funnily enough, every one of these forgotten places is under the car. Out of sight, out of mind seems to be the catch cry, but in many cases these areas are the most expensive to get fixed.

• Firstly, check the condition of the CV (constant velocity) joints. To do this, you need to turn the wheels all the way in both directions and take a peek. You are looking for cracks and grease leakage. If there is a problem with the CV’s, repairing them can cost a lot of money.
• Check your shock absorbers to see if they are covered in oil because that will mean they are leaking. If they are leaking, they will need replacing.
• Check your transmission from the side view and underneath for oil leaks. Get close and make sure that there are no tell tale signs of leakage, just in case it has been cleaned up but not fixed.
• Check the brake hoses for cracks or leaks. Take hold of them and give them a bit of manipulation, you will be able to see if there are cracks already or if some are just beginning to form. Pay close attention to the area around collars.
• Crawl right in underneath the car and look for oil leaks under and around the engine. These can be the result of things like rusted out oil pans. Make sure you pay real close attention to where the motor meets the transmission. You are looking for oil leaks from the rear main bearing seal. That’s the hardest and probably the most expensive part to fix. It requires removing the transmission to fix it and in some vehicles you will have to have the motor removed as well.
• Take a look at the frame, sub frame and chassis and everywhere else under there to make sure the car hasn’t been driven over curbs and rocks etc. and been damaged by a previous owner.
• Check for signs of rust along the petrol and brake lines. Look to see how rusty the petrol tank is, and whether or not there are damp spots where it has been sweating and/ or leaking.
• Check the Exhaust System, including the catalytic converter, for rust and holes, and repairs. Finding an old exhaust bandage flapping around under there can be a big hint.
• Finally, check the inside of the Exhaust Pipe. Use your finger to rub around the inside of it. There should always be a tiny bit of something in there but if you rub around in it and your finger comes out black, unless it is a diesel, that’s not a good sign. It usually means it hasn’t been running right and is burning way too much petrol. If it is a diesel, then lots of black stuff is normal.

So, that’s the underneath check list for your new used car. After this, everywhere else to check is fairly easy to get to. Good luck in your search for a good used car. I hope these tips have been or will be helpful.

Everybody looks to increase the performance of their automobiles because it is a nice feeling if your automobile gives more benefits. For this, they do everything starting from regular servicing of their vehicles to the use of better equipment. Even then also, they feel like they miss something in their automobiles which increases the performance and power of the engine. There are many automobile tools available in the market to increase the engine’s power and performance but a better way to increase the engine’s power at an affordable price is to use air intakes.

Air intakes are the devices used to bring lower temperature air into the car’s internal combustion engine. These devices replace stock air cleaner box and its plumbing with a simple tube that relocates the Air Intake to a position where it is picking up cold air from outside the engine compartment in to the engine which allows the fuel management system to give the engine a denser air/fuel charge into the combustion chamber. For more clarification, it means more horsepower from the engine. Warm air from engine compartment has less oxygen molecules. When this warm air is used in combustion, engine can’t give full efficiency. That’s why engine need it for fuel combustion and ultimately increases the engine’s horsepower. These devices contain a large tube that allows greater airflow capability.

How exactly the it give benefits? Well the method is very simple. It carry cold air directly to the engine. Since cold air is denser for the given volume of the engine cylinder air and therefore more oxygen is able to get inside. More oxygen means better combustion and better combustion means more fuel gets burnt so you get more power, and less fuel goes waste so you get better mileage and clean exhaust gases. It rushing into the Intake produces a very distinctive sound like a signature sound for your car and it looks very beautiful. I am sure, every one hopes to get best out of their automobiles and using these cold air intakes will ensure that you get the full efficiency from the engine.

Those in search of a quality Air Intake may find it interesting to know that there are several different types that serve slightly divergent functions. If you are not sure which one is the best for your individual needs, take some time to review the following list which contains information on three of the most commonly used air Intake systems.

Long Ram Cold Air Intake Systems, for instance, are known for their increased horsepower and gas mileage levels which they achieve through amplifying the volumetric productivity inside an automobile’s cylinders. The aforementioned productivity is then augmented as a result of removing the original air boxes and installing bent mandrel tubing in their stead. This necessary replacement amplifies both the speed and amount of the cool, efficiently-filtered air that comes into contact with the automobile’s engine.

Short Ram Air Intake Systems, on the other hand, are a bit different than their longer namesakes; they are generally regarded as less productive due to the fact that their tubing is shorter than the tubing that is typically installed in cold air intake systems. Unlike their aforementioned counterparts, Short Ram Air Intake Systems also tend to absorb warmer, less dense air since the tubes draw it directly from an area closer to the engine. Despite these small drawbacks, these systems are seen as a well-structured second option and are far superior to stock intake systems.

Finally, Ram Air Intake Systems are known for utilizing exterior air in order to physically force a type of electric induction toward the automobile’s engine. Ram Air Intake Systems are often installed with scoops placed on the hood of the car; these scoops allow the air to pass through the tubing, a fact which creates a higher air velocity as the automobile speeds up and increases the amount of cold air-and because of this, horsepower-present in the engine.

How does one come to a conclusion as to which system is more suitable? While many are automatically tempted to indulge in a larger system simply based on its size, this manner of choice is not always the best way to go about things. Scientifically speaking, there comes a time when a larger and wider tube, for instance, will not be able to adequately draw in an appropriate amount of air due to its increased diameter because the force of the cylinder displacement will not increase along with it. The trick is in finding a middle ground. One must also remember that other factors, such as the quality of the tubing itself or the filter, also have a great impact on the functionality of any air intake system.

Once again, finding the air intake system that is right for your individual needs is not as difficult as it sounds. A significant number of products may advertise that they offer widely increased output gains, but such claims are usually radical or meant to demonstrate the highest range of potential such systems can achieve in the most surreal of situations. An individual’s best bet is to find a quality air intake system-perhaps one with a tubing diameter of around 2.5 or 2.75 inches-in order to take full advantage of the system’s many benefits.

There are a few reasons why your car might overheat. It could be something simple like you just need to add some engine coolant. Other than that, there could be a problem with the radiator, the Water Pump may be on its way out or even worse, your head gasket could be about to write your car off.

The purpose of the head gasket is to seal the cylinders to maintain engine compression and avoid liquids like oil or coolant leaking into the engine. A blown head gasket can cause serious damage to the engine and result in an older car to be written off which is why car owners need to catch problems like this early. Your car may emit blue smoke which indicates that oil is burning. Without wishing to state the obvious, this is bad as oil should not be leaking. If your car is emitting white smoke then it is probably the engine coolant burning which is a less serious leak but one that still needs to be addressed. The first and most obvious indication that the head gasket is weak will be that your car will overheat and this will only become apparent when you are driving.

There some things you can do if your car is overheating to bring it back from the brink of breaking down. First, if you are in a safe place to stop, turn the engine off for five minutes as a way of cooling the engine system down. You could try lifting up the bonnet if you are pressed for time. DO NOT take the radiator cap off until the engine has cooled. So many people have burned themselves on hot water that has bubbled out of the radiator.

However, if you are stuck in traffic, it is clearly not safe to keep turning your engine off. If you decide to pull over, make sure you are well away from the traffic. Too many people have been hurt stood on the side of the road. If it is not safe to stop then try putting the heater on full blast, if this makes the inside of the car too hot to bear then open the windows until the needle on the Temp Sensor goes down.

Once you make it to your destination, if the overheating is not due to the amount of water or coolant in the radiator, make arrangements to check your car into a garage to confirm whether the head gasket is ok or not. The mechanic will do a pressure test or a leak down test which introduces compressed air into the cylinder and measures the rate it leak out at. From this stage, your mechanic will advise you on the best course of action from here.

Fuel efficiency is one of the most popular concerns of car owners. As the price of fuel keeps rising in the world market, it becomes mandatory for everyone to find ways on how to possibly save on gas. Here are good tips to follow:

1. Make sure that your car is running perfectly.
Cars that have problem motors are likely to use more gas. Have your car checked on a regular basis to keep it in shape. Tune ups should be done right on schedule. This way, you can keep your car from consuming more gas than it has to.

2. Use the Air Conditioner sparingly.
The air conditioning system of your car uses gasoline as well. This fact should force you not to use the air conditioner system when not necessary. If it is rather cold outside, why not roll down the window a bit and enjoy some fresh air? This is especially advisable on short rides. If that’s not possible, try to wait for the temperature inside the car to go down and then switch to fan mode right after.

3. Don’t over inflate your tires.
Tires that are filled over the required pressure tend to reduce the Fuel System efficiency of your car. Always check the pressure of the tire before driving. If you have to fill your tire with air, make sure that you don’t go over the limit.

4. Idle engine uses gas.
Don’t leave your car’s engine on idle if you will be gone for quite some time. Some people park their car and leave the engine on. This is not a good practice, even if you have somebody watching your car. You might also want to turn off the engine if the traffic is so worse every stop is more than 5 minutes worth of wait.

5. Don’t drive too fast.
Driving too fast consumes more gas than driving within acceptable speeds. You should have known that already. Every time you accelerate, you step on the gas. That means you’re using more fuel if you are unnecessarily driving too fast. Unless you’re in a race, remind yourself that speed limit doesn’t mean minimum speed.

6. Consider your gas choices thoroughly.
When you go the gas station, there are different types of gas to choose from – unleaded, premium, and all other types of car fuel that may or may not be compatible with your car. Know the type of Fuel Filter your car needs. Your car would run with unleaded gasoline as good as the more expensive ones. Just be sure not to load up on diesel or LPG if your car runs on gasoline. Doing so would ruin your car. Consult your manual for reference.

7. Choose fuel efficient cars.
If you really want to save gas, you might want to change your car entirely into another model that is known to be real fuel efficient. Cars that are made to run fast tend to consume more gas than cars with less whistles and horns. Know the car’s expected mileage per gallon straight from its dealer.